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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.